Prisojnik (also called Prisank) is a majestic stretched out mountain, which shows its huge north wall towards Kranjska Gora and Vršič pass. Two marked and secured climbing routes (via ferratas) lead across it and offer both challenge and pleasure only to skilled mountaineers. This time we will ascend along Kopiščar route in the western part of the wall. It starts on Vršič pass, goes past the rocky face of the famous 'Pagan girl' and reaches the ridge through western window in the Prisojnik north wall. There are also several options for descent. We chose a not too lengthy and quite interesting Slovenska path, which leads back to Vršič across Prisojnik south slope. A beautiful tour in the heartland of Julian Alps. A real 'mountain treat' for all mountaineers used to lots of 'iron' and exposed sections!
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The starting point is Vršič pass (1611 m) on the road 'Kranjska Gora – Bovec'.
From Vršič pass ascend past Tičar mountain hut on a wide dirt road until a marked spot with an excellent view towards the rocky face of the 'Pagan girl' in Prisojnik north wall. Here follow the signpost 'Prisojnik – skozi okno', descend a bit and cross the slope towards the wall through a gorgeous larch tree forest. You will reach the entrance to the climbing section in about half an hour. You will see right away that Kopiščar route (via ferrata) is no joke. It starts with an exposed vertical section, later on it gets easier, but after that it takes you to the most difficult part along a narrow 'crack'. The path is nicely secured and slightly overhanging in some places. A narrow passage under a rock awaits you, where you might have to push your backpack in front of you. The path becomes less steep again and before long you come underneath the astonishing window in the Prisojnik wall, through which you climb onto the ridge.
Here the path merges with the easier 'ridge' path (= Grebenska pot), which leads to the Prisojnik summit in less than an hour without greater difficulties. You are in the midst of Julian Alps and there is probably no need to emphasize how phenomenal the views are.
There are quite a few options for the descent. One possibility, especially interesting for very fit individuals, is the 'Jubilejna' path. It continues along the ridge towards east, passes Zadnji (= Last) Prisojnik and the second window in the eastern part of Prisojnik wall. This path is really long. It takes you to the foothill of Mt. Razor, then turns westwards and crosses the south slope of Prisojnik back to Vršič.
Nontheless, we preferred to choose a descent along the southern or 'Slovenska' path. Go down from the summit along the same path for about a hundred meters and then turn left (marked crossroad). At first you cross the slope to the left, but then the path turns right and descends across the south slope of Prisank towards south-west. The path is not very demanding, apart from a few short slightly exposed passages. In the lower section it merges with the 'ridge' path (direction 'Prednje okno') and 'Jubilejna' path (direction 'Razor'). Afterwards it winds around Prisank and takes you back to Vršič pass across a large scree-slope.
Prisojnik or. Prisank: 2547 m
Vršič pass - Prisojnik (Kopiščar route - through the window): 4 h
Prisojnik - Vršič pass (southern or 'Slovenska' path): 2.30 h
Total: 6.30 h
5 - Kopiščar route through the window is a very difficult climbing route (via ferrata). There are many vertical sections (some are even slightly overhanging) and very exposed. This is a path for skilled mountaineers, who are used to steel cables and exposed terrain. The path along the ridge (after exiting the window) is not that demanding anymore, but it is still not appropriate for people suffering from vertigo. A sure step is also needed when descending down the southern or 'Slovenska' path. The described path of descent has a only few difficult passages secured with steel cables. A helmet is necessary and a via-ferrata safety set is highly recommended.
Type of path: marked path