On the road 'Jesenice – Kranjska Gora' turn into Mojstrana village and pay attention to a small board for 'Krma'. Proceed on an asphalt road to a small hamlet by a large meadow. Carry on along the road and soon you come to a board for 'Kovinarska Koča v Krmi', which guides you to the right. If the road is negotiable (due to snow), you can continue from 'Kovinarska Koča' hut for another 2 km until a parking lot at the end of the road in Krma valley (about 950 m).
From the parking lot continue in the direction of a summer path towards the end of Krma valley. The path ascends gently towards south-west throughout. A popular winter path to Kredarica hut takes place here and you will probably meet other hikers/skiers as well. When you reach flat terrain at the end of Krma valley, the path to Kredarica branches off to the right, but you go to the left (south-west) through a sparse larch forest. Soon the forest ends and you will spot 'Bohinjska Vratca' saddle in front of you. The gradient increases gradually and the slopes are endangered by avalanches.
Once you arrive to Bohinjska Vratca saddle, you will see a clear 'stone pyramid' of 'Mišelj Vrh' summit in front of you: Velska valley is on its right (north) side and Mišeljska valley on its left (south) side. Descend straight down from Vratca saddle and carry on past Vodnik hut to Velo Polje meadow. I suggest that you ascend through Velska valley since the entrance to Mišeljska valley is somewhat harder to find, plus it has very steep sections endangered by avalanches. On Velo Polje meadow proceed northwards and ascend gently through the wide Velska valley. Before long you will spot a steep 'pyramid-like' wall at the end of the valley, which concludes the ridge of Kanjavec. On its left side there is the saddle to which you have to ascend. The land just below the saddle is steep and endangered by avalanches! Be careful! Behind the saddle you come to a plateau called Hribarice; Kanjavec is the two-headed summit on your right. There are several options of ascent. If you turn right straight after you exit from Velska valley, you will have to cross steeper slopes (endangered by avalanches) towards the eastern summit of Kanjavec. However, it is much simpler to descend slightly westwards to Hribarice plateau, and then ascend directly towards north through a small less steep valley between both summits of Kanjavec. In nice weather the view from the summit will make your heart skip a beat and give you the much-needed energy for a long descent that awaits you.
You can descend down the direction of ascent, or choose the less-known Mišeljska valley. In this case go down to Hribarice plateau and search for a clear saddle between the summits of 'Mišelj Konec' and 'Vrh Hribaric' (these are the summits on your left if you look from Kanjavec towards south). When entering Mišeljska valley keep to the right (closer to 'Vrh Hribaric'). The valley is significantly narrower than Velska valley and gradually descends eastwards. The terrain is very steep in places, so going down this way is only advisable in good snow conditions. When the steep slope comes to an end you have to overcome a gentle ascent to a meadow called 'Planina pod Mišelj Vrhom' and continue past a small lake back to Velo Polje meadow. The whole time during the descent the 'fat' summit of Tosc reigns in front of you; on its left side is the 'Bohinjska Vratca' saddle - the final ascent of this tour. It takes about an hour from Velo Polje to Bohinjska Vratca and then a quick descent to Krma valley concludes our fabulous day.
Kanjavec: 2569 m
End of the road in Krma valley - Vodnik hut on Velo Polje meadow: 4 h
Vodnik hut on Velo Polje meadow - Kanjavec (across Velska valley): 3.30 h
Kanjavec - Velo Polje (across Mišeljska valley): 3 h
Velo polje - Krma: 3.30 h
Total: 14 h
The tour itself is not too demanding, but excellent endurance is a must. The slopes beneath Bohinjska Vratca saddle, the upper part of Velska valley, the whole Mišeljska valley and the slopes between Hribarice plateau and Kanjavec are all steep and endangered by avalanches.
From the summit of Kanjavec descend to Hribarice plateau and then ski either through Velska or Mišeljska valley. Mišeljska valley is more difficult, because it crosses steeper slopes. Both valleys merge again at Velo Polje meadow. An ascent to Bohinjska Vratca saddle and a fantastic descent by the walls of Pokljuka plateau back to Krma valley follow.
Skiing difficulty: Velska valley: 3 / Mišeljska valley: 4
Skiing duration: both options ca. 4 h (including an hour of ascent from Velo Polje back to Bohinjska Vratca saddle)